May. 26, 2025
Well, I'm at a point in a couple of current projects and a future project that I should be making my own parts.
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit HAVEN.
What should I be looking for in a mill/lathe machine? I was going to go with a multi machine, is that wrong? I'm sure that I'll get confidence as I go, but are these machines easy to learn?
I only have second hand experience (friends and associates who've bougth them), but it seems the best way to get into this is to join one of the forums on the subject (again, no experience... the LAST thing I need to think about right now...) and learn about what to look for and where.
I know a guy who builds custom bike frames and has slowly built a very nice collection of mills and lathes for not a horrible amount of money (I'd say $10K tops for everything, not including some the bike frame-specific jigs he bought)... A couple of mills, a couple of lathes... etc...all really old stuff - mostly WWII era... some of it needed some work, but you simply can't buy tools that well made these days...
If I had room/money, I'd be right there next to you...
Confucius say: Do one thing well, do many thing E36 M3ty.
The combination units can be a pain, generally, the lathe is too short and too small, same for the mill.
Buy a lathe on it's own first, you can mill on a lathe but you can't turn on a mill.
I work in a tool store, we sell the chinese lathes like the Grizzly and whatnot. I own a Southbend lathe.
My southbend cost me $400.00 used and it's just as worn-out as a brand-new chinese lathe but is better quality. Add a quick-change Aloris toolpost to a southbend and you've got a great machine.
Shawn
We have one of those combinaton mill/lathe things for the Lab at work. It probably wouldn't even make a good boat anchor. The swing of the lathe, that's the distance from the center of the chuck to the nearest thing it will hit, is about 6", almost cut in half if the carriage gets under the chuck. I use the mill to square off cubes of metal that were cut on a saw, just refacing and squaring up the edges; .050 cut stalls the thing out.
Take your time, go to auctions or going-out-of-business sales and buy something old. You just can't buy a good solid poured steel frame piece of equipment nowdays. You can update it with digital readout and all the chachkas, but a good solid base is hard to beat.
Bridgeport is one of the better names in mills, mostly because of their versatility. The head can be tilted, hold mills, chucks or a collet chuck. Because of their popularity hard to come by.
Think about what you're going to be doing with it and then add 25%. It's easier (safer) to make a big machine to smaller work than to overwork a small one. A speed lathe is one that holds collets and can sing along at about rpm, handy for smaller parts. Nice to have but not a necessity. Brand names like LeBlond, Cincinatti, G&L carry spares and expendables going back decades. A good quality machine will always be a good quality machine, the is/was hermaphodite Chinese stuff can't ever be.
Don't be scared off by the older flat belt drive units, yeah they look all Dr. Seuss but even 90 years old they can still cut within .
Dan
Materials Technician
Quality Control Inspector
Tool Maker
R&E and Prototype machinist.
Look for places like this: http://www.govdeals.com/eas/catSelector.cfm?mycat=65&sortoption=ad&startrow=1
Edit: Just for S&Gs I typed lathe in the local CL search, came up with a surprising number worthy of looking at.
http://albany.craigslist.org/tls/.html
http://albany.craigslist.org/tls/.html
http://albany.craigslist.org/tls/.html
http://albany.craigslist.org/tls/.html
GhiaMonster wrote: Thanks 914, for the local craigslist adds, now I want to go buy more equipment. $ for the Bridgeport with tools seems like a really good deal. The hard part might be powering some of this equipment depending on what it is set up to run (1 vs 3 phase, 240V - 480V)
$ for a running driving Bridgeport with tools is a really good deal. Like ignorant said, get a 3 phase converter. Run it like it was supposed to be run.
I just picked up a mill (thread in off topic) but it really needs a lot of work. I mean a LOT of work.
The combination lathe/mills are next to useless. Something to think about is going to a local trade school for classes in machine work. Learn on their machines with their tools and maybe get some of your projects done while your at it.
I have an 8 year old Shoptask multi lathe/mill/drill. I bought it with some accessories; extra chuck, divider head, 4 position quick change tool post. It will swing 11", takes MT-3 tooling, etc. I'm generally pleased with it, but I respect it's limitations, both in capacity and precision. For 90% of the fab work I do, it's capable enough, and for the rest I either use my WWII era South Bend, or send it out. I can make suspension parts, face pistons, build intake manifold parts, etc. The old stuff is still the best, if you can find it, and keep it running properly. Check out Lindsay Books for anything and everything you ever wanted to know.
http://www.lindsaybks.com/
Carter
I've got a s era South Bend 9" lathe that is perfect. Paid $450.00 for it. The mill I have is a HF small one. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=
The mill is a little small sometimes, but it gets the job done. My shop is only 12X16 so space is a premium.
Buying used machines is the best route most times, particularly if you can get tooling with it. The lathe I added a quick change tool post and a 2.5 hp DC motor and variable speed drive and replaced both chucks (3 and 4 jaw). Before you know it your $450.00 machine is $.00. The mill was about $500.00. Had to buy a clamp kit, an assortment of mills, a fly cutter, a parallel set, collet set, centering set, and what not. Don't forget your measuring and layout tools. The machine that costs twice as much but comes with a lot of tools might be worth it,
Speaking from experience, there is nothing worse than getting a new or new to you machine home and realizing you can't use it with out another $500.00 worth of stuff.
Good luck in your hunt. It is a lot of fun taking a chunk of metal and turning it in to something useful. Or looking at that custom machined widget and knowing that you can run out to the shop and make one yourself.
Ok guys, I know you like busting my chops about not turning on a mill.
Here's the simple question:
Which would you buy first, lathe or mill?
For me it's a lathe. You use it more often for more things.
A lathe is the only machine that can reproduce itself.
You can even turn a cube in a lathe without a milling attachment.
I love my old southbend, they're great little machines and you can find them anywhere. Get a model A or B if you can, I have a model C and I really whish I had a power crossfeed and quick-change gearbox.
The Q/C toolpost is the best upgrade you can make on an older machine. I didn't realise how much lantern toolposts sucked until I changed over.
Any older machine will work well for you. Atlas, Logan, Hercus, LeBlond or Southbend are all great units for a home shop.
Ok, you can turn on a mill, just not easily and no threading.
Here's the place to go: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/ http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/index.php?s=f77b3b9db02d46c5a115b32de16a
Shawn
I have a nice Bridgeport and a 12x40 Sharp lathe in my prototype shop at work, and use of a Heavy 10 South bend and a Millrite at my parents house. Sadly my basement shop at home has a tiny convoluted staircase for entry, so all I could really get in when I tooled up to do some consulting projects was a 3-in-1 machine.
Yes, I'll admit it. I have a Smithy Granite . That said, once I'd essentially rebuilt it, scraped in a couple surfaces so the mill head was in tram, and completely disassembled, cleaned, sealed to keep the casting sand particles at bay the headstock w/ real American Timken spindle bearings - it's fine for the small stuff I need to do at home.
I have Chinese Aloris copy toolposts on the front and back (cutoff tool upside down to the rear of the spindle works awesome) and a set of Shooting Star DROs installed. It has literally paid for itself several times over with paying work.
If I had space and access I'd buy a Bridgeport or Index mill and a Clausing or South Bend 13" lathe in a heartbeat, but my situation is what it is. I'd say I use the Smithy nearly every day to do something. Last night I was reconfiguring a couple closets with Elfa shelving and I needed a chrome closet pole that was longer. I had 2 short ones so I faced them to length and turned a coupler from a bit of 1" Nylatron and pushed it together.
My 80-something dad says "I just don't see how you can run a house without a lathe"
Below are some pics of the tools and machines. Nothing big or fancy, just stuff to get the little jobs done, almost all from the local Craigslist like the welders, plasma and compressor in the garage. Wait for the deals and be ready to commit.
Unit 1: The Engine Lathe
After completing this unit, you should be able to:
• Identify the most important parts of the Lathe and their functions.
• Understand the Lathe safety rules. • Describe setup a cutting tool for machining.
• Describe mount workpiece in the lathe.
• Explain how to install cutting tool.
• Describe the positioning the tool.
• Describe how to centering the workpiece and tailstock center.
The lathe is a very versatile and important machine to know how to operate. This machine rotates a cylindrical object against a tool that the individual controls. The lathe is the forerunner of all machine tools. The work is held and rotated on its axis while the cutting tool is advanced along the line of a desired cut. The lathe is one of the most versatile machine tools used in industry. With suitable attachments, the lather may be used for turning, tapering, form turning, screw cutting, facing, dulling, boring, spinning, grinding, polishing operation. Cutting operations are performed with a cutting tool fed either parallel or at right angles to the axis of the work. The cutting tool may also be fed at an angle, relative to the axis of the work, for machining taper and angles. On a lathe, the tailstock does not rotate. Instead, the spindle that holds the stock rotates. Collets, centers, three jaw chucks, and other work-holding attachments can all be held in spindle. The tailstock can hold tools for drilling, threading, reaming, or cutting tapers. Additionally, it can support the end of the workpiece using a center and can be adjusted to adapt to different workpiece lengths.
Figure 1. Parts of a lathe
1. Power On/Off
2. Spindle Forward/Reverse (flip handle up or down)
3. Carriage Handwheel 4. Cross Feed Handwheel
5. Compound Feed Handwheel
6. Carriage/Cross Feed Engage
7. Threading Half Nut
8. Threading Dial
9. Spindle Speed
10. Brake
11. Spindle High/Low Range
12. Thread/Feed Reverse (push in/pull out)
13. Feed Ranges (A, B, C)
14. Feed Ranges (R, S, T)
15. Feed Ranges (V, W, X, Y, Z) – V and Z are settings for threading
16. Gear Box
17. Gear Box Low/High
18. Tailstock
19. Tool Post
20. Toolholder
21. Three – Jaw Chuck
22. DRO (Digital Read Out) Threading/Feed Selector (see item15)
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit lathe machine manufacturer.
As always we should be aware of safety requirements and attempt to observe safety rules in order to eliminate serious injury to ourselves or others.
Wear glasses, short sleeves, no tie, no rings, no trying to stop the work by hand. Stop the machine before trying to check the work. Don’t know how it works? –“Don’t run it.” Don’t use rags when the machine is running.
1. Remove the chuck key from the chuck immediately after use. Do not turn the lathe on if the chuck is still in the chuck key.
2. Turn the chuck or faceplate through by hand unless there are binding or clearance issues.
3. It is important that the chuck or faceplate is securely tightened onto the lathe’s spindle.
4. Move the tool bit to a safe distance from the chuck, collet, or face plate when inserting or removing your part.
5. Place the tool post holder to the left of the compound slide. This will ensure that the compound slide will not run into the spindle or chuck attachments.
6. When installing and removing chucks, face plates, and centers, always be sure all mating surfaces are clean and free from burrs.
7. Make sure the tool bit is sharp and has correct clearance angles.
8. Clamp the tool bit as short as possible in the tool holder to prevent it from vibrating or breaking.
9. Evenly apply and maintain cutting fluids. This will prevent morphing.
10. Do not run a threaded spindle in reverse.
11. Never run the machine faster than the recommended speed for the specific material.
12. If a chuck or faceplate is jammed on the spindle nose, contact an instructor to remove it.
13. If any filing is done on work revolving in the lathe, file left handed to prevent slipping into the chuck.
14. Always stop the machine before taking measurements.
15. Stop the machine when removing long stringy chips. Remove them with a pair of pliers.
16. Make sure that the tailstock is locked in place and that the proper adjustments are made if the work is being turned between centers.
17. When turning between centers, avoid cutting completely through the piece.
18. Do not use rags while the machine is running.
19. Remove tools from the tool post and tailstock before cleaning.
20. Do not use compressed air to clean the lathe.
21. Use care when cleaning the lathe. The cutting tools are sharp, the chips are sharp, and the workpiece may be sharp.
22. Make sure the machine is turned off and clean before leaving the workspace. Always remove the chuck wrench after use, avoid horseplay, keep floor area clean. Use care when cleaning the lathe, the cutting tools are sharp, the chips are sharp, and the workpiece may be sharp.
Here are some questions which are important when running a lathe:
• Why is proper Cutting Speed important?
When set too high the tool breaks down quickly, time is lost replacing or reconditioning the tool. Too low of a CS results in low production.
Know:
• Depth of cut for Roughing.
• Depth of cut for Finishing.
Notice the largest roughing cuts range from .010 to .030 depending on the material being machined, and .002 to .012 for the finish feed for the different materials.
• Feedrate for Roughing cut
• Feedrate for Finishing cut
Notice the Feedrate for roughing cuts range from .005 to .020 depending on the material being machined, and .002 to .004 for the finish feed for the different materials.
There are many different tools that can be used for turning, facing, and parting operations on the lathe. Each tool is usually composed of carbide as a base material, but can include other compounds. This section covers the different appearances and uses of lathe cutting tools.
To setup a Cutting Tool for Machining
• Move the toolpost to the left-hand side of the compound rest.
• Mount a toolholder in the toolpost so that the set screw in the toolholder is about 1 inch beyond the toolpost.
• Insert the proper cutting tool into the toolholder, having the tool extend .500 inch beyond the toolholder.
• Set the cutting tool point to center height. Check it with straight rule or tailstock.
• Tighten the toolpost securely to prevent it from moving during a cut
Figure 2: Toolpost and Toolholder
To Mount Workpiece in Lathe
• Check that the line center is running true. If it is not running true, remove the center, clean all surfaces, and replace the center. Check again for trueness.
• Clean the lathe center points and the center holes in the workpiece.
• Adjust the tailstock spindle until it projects about 3 inch beyond tailstock.
• Loosen the tailstock clamp nut or lever.
• Place the end of the workpiece in the chuck and slide the tailstock up until it supports the other end of the workpiece.
• Tighten the tailstock clamp nut or level.
Figure 3: Workpiece in Lathe
Installing a Cutting Tool
• Tool holders are used to hold lathe cutting tools.
• To install, clean the holder and tighten the bolts.
• The lathe’s tool holder is attached to the tool post using a quick release lever.
• The tool post is attached to the machine with a T-bolt.
Figure 4: Installing a Cutting Tool
To reposition the cutting tool, move the cross slide and lathe saddle by hand. Power feeds are also available. Exact procedures are dependent on the machine. The compound provides a third axis of motion, and its angle can be altered to cut tapers at any angle.
1. Loosen the bolts that keep the compound attached to the saddle.
2. Swivel the compound to the correct angle, using the dial indicator located at the compound’s base.
3. Tighten the bolts again.
4. The cutter can be hand fed along the chosen angle. The compound does not have a power feed.
5. If needed, use two hands for a smoother feed rate. This will make a fine finish.
6. Both the compound and cross slide have micrometer dials, but the saddle lacks one.
7. If more accuracy is needed when positioning the saddle, use a dial indicator that is attached to the saddle. Dial indicators press against stops.
Figure 5: Positioning the Tool
Steel Rule
1. Place the steel rule between the stock and the tool.
2. The tool is centered when the rule is vertical.
3. The tool is high when the rule is lean forward.
4. The tool is low when the rule is lean backward.
Tailstock Center
1. Reference the center of the tailstock when setting the tool.
2. Position the tip of the tool with the tailstock center.
1. Please list the ten most important parts of the Lathe.
2. Please list five Lathe safety guidelines.
3. Why is cutting speed important?
4. What is a Toolholder?
5. Where do you mount a Toolholder?
6. How far do you extend the cutting tool in the Toolholder?
7. Please list three different cutting tools.
8. Please describe the positioning of the tool.
9. Explain how to center the workpiece.
10. What are the two way to center the workpiece?
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