Loading Dock Guardrail Buyer's Guide - Simplified Building

Author: Joy

Jun. 05, 2025

Loading Dock Guardrail Buyer's Guide - Simplified Building

Your loading dock has some of the most important traffic for the success of your business. This much traffic means a lot of exposure to hazards, falling off the loading dock.

Goto DACHU to know more.

Preventing someone from falling off the loading dock is as simple as installing a guardrail.

Here are 4 questions that will help you know that you’re picking the right option.

Will the Guardrail Meet Loading Dock Railing Requirements?

OSHA details the requirements for guardrails in more detail since the update. However, OSHA .29 repeats itself a lot and it can be a little confusing to sort through.

Here is a summary to make it easy for you:

  • The top rail must be 42 inches in height, give or take 3 inches.
  • The top rail must be able to withstand 200lbs of force in the downward and outward direction.
  • A midrail should be installed midway between the top rail and the surface.
    • Additional midrails should be added as needed to make sure there is no opening greater than 19 inches.
  • The midrail should be able to withstand 150lbs of force in the downward and outward direction.
  • Do not create projection hazards with any rails extending beyond terminating posts.

We built a guide for OSHA compliant guardrails If you’d like to dig deeper into this.

The ADA will want to make sure those with disabilities have safe means of accessing the work zone, if applicable. We put a guide together to help you navigate the ADA code and determine if and how it applies to you.

Also, check with your local building code if you’re doing anything that requires a permit and inspections.

A Kee Klamp mounted guardrail will meet OSHA standards and can be designed to meet ADA requirements and local building codes. It can even be modified after installation to meet new requirements that come up.

How easy is it to design?

Not every loading dock is made equal. You may have long ramps that slope down towards your dock. Or maybe you have a long exterior dock with multiple load points and access stairs.

No matter how simple or complicated your loading dock is, you want a guardrail that can easily conform to the layout and your work needs. Pre-welded panels can pigeonhole you into specific configurations or potential leave blank spaces that someone or something could fall through.

You should be able to design the guardrail yourself, if you choose, and still know that it's compliant with any applicable standards.

How Easy is the Loading Dock Railing to Install?

Being able to DIY the guardrail will give you a lot of freedom around the time that the railing gets installed. How many times have projects been delayed because a contractor was behind on a project?

You want a guardrail that is so easy that the new guy can install it. Here are a few questions that you can answer to see how much complication the guardrail will add to your project:

Is a Hot Work Permit required?

This could add days and weeks to your project as you wait for the permit to be approved and for the inspections to happen. This also adds money as you may have to pay for these inspections and for the expertise of a welder.

What tools are needed to install the guardrail?

This could be as simple as needing a torque wrench, Sawzall, and hammer drill, which is all that is needed for a Kee Klamp railing. Or you may need large diamond core bits with an appropriately large drill to core into the concrete.

What happens if the guardrail doesn’t fit?

Sometimes you have to move the location of the guardrail during installation. Maybe someone forgot to work around a support beam for the dock canopy. Or it could be that a process has changed overnight, and the layout now needs to change.

Our component-based guardrail will allow you to make these changes on the fly. You don’t have to worry about sending huge panels of guardrail back by freight and waiting for the replacements to arrive. Kee Klamps are small and can be easily shipped overnight to help you finish your project on time.

The answers to these questions could determine if you have removed stress induced headaches or added them.

How will you protect the loading areas?

A very common question is what to do with the empty space in the guardrail where the trucks are being loaded. After all, it’s not efficient or safe to try to unload a truck by handing product over a mounted handrail. I’m picturing that now. So much can go wrong.

Here are the 3 options you can use.

Safety Gate

A safety gate is the most effective option for protection because it requires the least amount of work with the strongest protection. You can also build one yourself if you use the correct swivel fittings. Any gate that you use must provide safety equivalent to a guardrail.

Loading Dock Safety Chains

A chain can be used, but like with safety gates, needs to be able to provide the same level of safety as a guardrail. Most of the time, I don’t see this happening. The top rail (or chain) must not deflect to a height lower than 39 inches. Most chains I’ve seen sag 5+ inches. Also, as shown above, multiple chains will need to be used so no opening is greater than 19 inches. This is the option with the greatest margin of error.

Removable Loading Dock Railing

Removable rails do not have the sag issues of chains. They also don’t have the ease of safety gates. This will depend on how the removable rail was designed. It should include some form of locking mechanism, like a set screw, so that it doesn’t slide or fall out, exposing the hazard.

How Easy Will the Guardrail be to Maintain?

Grabbing some lumber from your local shop to slap a railing together can be very tempting. However, how long will that last before you have to replace it again? What happens if a forklift, pallet jack, or truck bumps into it?

Contact us to discuss your requirements of guardrail accessories. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Galvanized steel or aluminum systems will last much longer. After all, we’re trying to get things off your plate, not snooze the problem like your morning alarm.

If something happens to damage the guardrail beyond normal wear and tear, then you want a guardrail that can be spliced into quickly. Wood can do this very easily, but do you really want to do this over and over...and over again?

 Our component-based guardrail systems will be easier to repair if something happens. Just cut the pipe and attach the new fittings and voila, you have a fixed guardrail. Also, you don’t have to wait for the store to open because you can buy the pipe and fittings you need online.

Wrapping Up

Getting your people home at the end of the day in good health is important. It’s one important thing of many on your plate...today. You don’t have to take all of this on by yourself.

Let us help you relieve some of your stress by getting the loading dock railing that you need.

Cable Railing: A Buying Guide - Lowe's

What Are Cable Railings?

Cable railings are tensioned cables, typically stainless steel, attached to wood, vinyl or steel posts with a top guard rail for safety and support. They’re used on patios, decks, stairs, balconies and porches. Their sleek, modern look and minimalist design provide unobstructed views that you can’t get with traditional railing. This has led to their rise in popularity.

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Parts of a Cable Railing System

A cable railing system consists of many parts that make up the finished product, each playing a vital role.

  • Cable: Horizontal wires, usually stainless steel, that run between two posts in the railing system (also known as infill) and between the top and bottom rails.
  • Posts: Vertical posts used to support the top rail. Post caps and post skirts may also be included in a cable railing kit for a finished look.
  • Top/Bottom Rail: Rails that run across the top and bottom of the cable railing system that are necessary for structural integrity.
  • Hardware: The hardware needed to connect the cables, rails and posts, tensioners and stabilizers for proper, safe installation of the cable railing system.

Cost of Cable Railing

As with any other type of railing system you use, the cost of a cable railing system — consisting of cable, posts, handrails and hardware — varies greatly and depends on various factors, including:

  • The size of the project and the area you need to cover. For this, you’ll need to know the exact measurements of how many linear feet you’ll need to cover.
  • The railing height. Start with your local code requirements, if any, for the railing height, and you can customize the height, if you prefer.
  • The complexity of the cable railing design. The more corners and posts your system has, the more labor and time involved, adding to the cost.
  • The cost of labor. Labor costs vary depending on whether the project is completed by a professional or whether you’re experienced and skilled to complete the job yourself (DIY – do-it-yourself). While there are significant cost savings if you go the DIY route, keep in mind that installing a cable railing system requires precision to ensure safety.
  • The material choice. Stainless steel cable railings are the first choice for many homeowners; however, it isn’t the only choice. Aluminum offers an alternative to stainless steel that’s cost-effective and lightweight and strikes a balance between durability and affordability. You also have the choice of wood or metal posts.

A complete stainless steel cable railing system is estimated to be about $150-$285 per linear foot, including installation. That estimate is reduced if you opt for wood posts and framing. Compare that to the cost of other railings.

Cable Railing Safety

Studies by the National Ornamental and Miscellaneous Metals Association (NOMMA) and the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) have shown the risk of children climbing and falling off cable railings is minimal.

However, the wider the gap between cables, the higher the risk of an accident. This can be mitigated by increasing the cable density; however, this may increase the cost as well as obstruct the view slightly.

Caution

To mitigate the risk of injury, always monitor small children and pets around cable railing.

Pros and Cons of Cable Railing

Cable railing works well in both residential and commercial spaces, making it a popular choice for many. However, as with any other type of railing, it has advantages and disadvantages.

Cable Railing Pros:

  • Low maintenance but does require routine cleaning and adjustments to preserve tensile strength.
  • Resists corrosion and won’t decay.
  • Designed with durability in mind.
  • A budget-friendly, affordable option.

Cable Railing Cons:

  • The installation process is often complex and can be time-consuming.
  • Lack of privacy.
  • Galvanized steel cables can erode over time.
  • Fluctuating temperatures may result in expansion and contraction of the cable which may cause the cable railing to loosen.
Good to Know

Some jurisdictions may have restrictions on the use of cable railings. Check with local building codes to ensure you’re in compliance before installing.

Notes on Installation

Not all deck railing systems are the same and not all installation processes are the same. There are, however, general steps that may apply for each installation. If you’re installing cable railing yourself, you likely purchased a cable railing kit which should walk you through the installation process. Below is a summary of DIY installation steps. Your installation process may vary so ensure that you read and follow your instruction manual.

Are you interested in learning more about bridge guardrails? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

  1. Before beginning installation, ensure you have all the parts needed for installation and read the manual thoroughly.
  2. Measure out and install vertical posts no more than four feet apart.
  3. Measure and mark the holes on the post for the cables.
  4. Pre-drill the holes, ensuring that the cable spacing is no more than 3-1/8-inches apart. For accuracy, make a template with the correct hole placement that you can use for each post to make the holes equal and guide the drill each time.
  5. Starting at the top of the post, run a cable through the first hole and fasten the end of the cable to the post with a washer and nut, then thread the cable to the end of the terminating post. Pull the cable tight and put a one-way clamp on the cable.
  6. Repeat Step 5 with the remaining rows of cables until all rows of cable have been run.
  7. Using a wrench, tighten each cable.
  8. At the end of each run, snip off excess cable and finish it off with end caps to hide the end of the cable.
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