Jun. 23, 2025
Imagine a world powered entirely by the sun—clean, limitless, and sustainable. As we move closer to this vision, solar panels are playing a key role, using either N-type or P-type solar cells to capture energy. But with technology advancing and the demand for green energy soaring, one question remains: which type of solar panel truly leads the way?
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N-type solar cells are made from N-type silicon and P-type solar panels are made from P-type silicon. Both generate electricity when they are in reach of sunlight, however, there is still some difference between them.
In this blog, we will dive into the depths of how topcon n-type and p-type solar cells work, their advantages and disadvantages, what is best for you, and answer some questions that might arise after learning about both these solar cells.
N-type Solar cells are photovoltaic devices that are made from materials such as monocrystalline silicon with additional doping of elements like phosphorus or arsenic, which makes them high in electrons, resulting in a surplus of negative charge carriers.
In an N-type cell, electrons are the majority charge carrier. These electrons can move freely through the material. When sunlight hits the cell, the photons energize the free electrons, causing them to flow toward the front surface and produce electricity.
Both N-Type and P-Type Solar Cells have their advantages and disadvantages, and these are some advantages of the N-Type solar cells.
Modern Photovoltaic Technology: N-type solar panels can generate up to 20% more electricity than traditional solar panels.
Doping and Semiconductor Materials: N-type solar cells use materials such as monocrystalline silicon with additional doping of elements like phosphorus or arsenic, which makes it high in electrons.
Layer Configuration in N-Type Cells: N-type Cells usually have a thin upper P-type layer and then a thick N-type layer as a base. This creates a p-n junction, leading to the absorption of sunlight and then the conversion to electricity.
Higher Carrier Lifetimes: N-type solar cells have a longer lifetime as compared to P-type cells.
Long-Term Stability in Outdoor Conditions: N-type solar cells have a long-term stability in outdoor conditions as compared to P-type cells, especially those using materials like dye-sensitized solar cells and perovskite solar cells.
Lower Levelized Cost of Energy: N-type solar cells can potentially lead to a lower levelized cost of energy due to their higher efficiency and longer lifespan compared to P-type cells.
Increasing Usage in Utility-Scale Projects: On a larger scale, utility companies are turning to n-type silicon for renewable energy projects and photovoltaic systems due to its ability to generate more electricity per square meter of land.
Higher Manufacturing Cost: The cost of manufacturing N-type solar cells is 10-30% higher than P-type solar cells. It is due to more complex processing steps and the use of specialised equipment.
Stricter Quality Control Requirements: N-type solar cells involve rigorous testing and analysis to ensure the desired properties are met, which makes it more expensive as compared to P-type.
Scarcity of Required Materials: It is hard to find the materials that are used to create N-type solar panels, making them scarce.
Limited Availability Compared to P-Type: As the materials to make this are hard to find, their availability is limited.
Integration with Existing Systems: Integrating new or modified N-type systems into existing systems can be challenging due to the complexity of ensuring compatibility across different technologies, data formats, and architectures.
Specialized Maintenance Knowledge: The expertise required to maintain systems or equipment that specifically utilize or are based on n-type semiconductors is a very high maintenance knowledge that can only be learned by a few.
P-type solar cells are made by doping silicon and Boron. This doping creates “holes” in the material, enabling positive charge carriers to move easily when light is absorbed. It is a solar technology that is dominant in today’s solar market.
P-type cells have boron atoms added, resulting in a lack of electrons or “holes” in the atomic structure. The boron accepts electrons from the adjacent N-type layer, forming the PN junction where power is produced.
Both N-Type and P-Type Solar Cells have their advantages and disadvantages. Here are some advantages of the P-type solar cells.
Material Composition and Simplicity: P-type semiconductors are created by doping intrinsic semiconductors like silicon or germanium with trivalent impurities such as boron or aluminum. These impurities act as acceptors, introducing “holes” which act as positive charge carriers and increase the material’s conductivity.
Compatibility with Existing Production Lines: As it is already getting widely used in the market, its compatibility is better than N-type.
Lower Initial Costs: P-type silicon wafers generally have a lower initial cost compared to N-type wafers. This is primarily due to the simpler production process and lower material costs involved in creating P-type wafers.
Dominance in the Current Market: P-type solar cells were announced earlier than N-type and are cheaper too, making them dominant in the current Solar market.
Optimized for Average Sunlight Conditions: P-type solar cells are made for the optimization of average sunlight conditions, which makes them usable.
Impact on Long-Term Performance: P-type semiconductor materials in solar cells can experience lower long-term performance compared to n-type because of light-induced degradation, potential-induced degradation, and lower efficiency rates.
Restrictions in Advanced Cell Architectures: P-Type cells generally have a lower theoretical efficiency ceiling compared to N-Type cells, making them less suitable for cutting-edge applications. They can be hard to add in advanced cell architectures.
Faster Performance Decline in Harsh Environments: P-type cells are usually suitable for average environments and can be low performers in harsh environments.
Energy-Intensive Production Processes: P-type cells, while having a lower investment in manufacturing, can get expensive as it is an Energy-Intensive Production Processes.
Reduced Adaptability to Smart Grid Technologies: P-type has challenges that refer to the fact that smart grid features are not fully compatible or adaptable to certain grid types or components.
If you are a person who is looking for a cheap investment, then P-type cells are the right choice for you. However, the expense increases gradually as it is not perfect for long-term use.
But if you are a person who is ready to invest more at the start, then you can have a much better solar panel system, which consumes less power and is compatible with every temperature.
For industries and organizations aiming for sustainable energy, choosing the right solar cell is crucial. Topcon N-type and P-type solar cells each have pros and cons. N-type cells, though more expensive, offer reliable performance in diverse climates—ideal for long-term use. In contrast, P-type cells are cheaper but work best in consistent, normal sunlight, making them less versatile for varied industrial needs.
Contact us today to learn more about our Topcon N-Type and P-Type Solar Cells
1. What is the main difference between N-type Topcon and P-type solar cells?
N-type solar cells are made using phosphorus-doped silicon, creating a surplus of electrons, while P-type cells use boron-doped silicon, resulting in “holes” as charge carriers.
2. What are N-type TOPCon cells?
N-type Solar cells are photovoltaic devices that are made from employed materials.
3. Can N-type solar panels perform well in harsh climates?
Yes, N-type solar cells are known for their long-term stability and superior performance in various environmental conditions, including high temperatures and low light.
4. What are the challenges associated with P-type solar cells?
P-type cells are prone to light-induced degradation (LID), have a lower efficiency ceiling, and can degrade faster in harsh environments compared to N-type cells.
5. Are N-type solar panels worth the higher investment?
While N-type panels have a higher upfront cost, their enhanced efficiency, durability, and longer lifespan can provide better long-term value, especially in large-scale and utility projects.
6. Is it possible to integrate both N-type and P-type solar panels in one system?
Technically, it is possible, but integrating both types may require specialized inverters and careful system design to ensure compatibility and efficiency.
7.Which type of solar cell is more commonly used worldwide?
P-type solar cells are more widely used due to their lower cost and established manufacturing processes, but N-type cells are gaining popularity for their advanced efficiency and performance.
8. Which type of solar cell do large industries and factories prefer?
Large industries and factories often prefer N-type solar cells due to their higher efficiency, durability, and reliable performance in various climates, despite the higher initial cost.
Want more information on TOPCon PV Cell? Feel free to contact us.
9. Are P-type solar cells commonly used in industrial applications?
While P-type solar cells are cost-effective and widely used in residential settings, many large industries lean towards N-type cells for their long-term efficiency and stability, especially in demanding environments.
@sealy
Thank you for your clear explanation!
I saw this one pass by, it seems like something to me considering price and quality. I would like to buy 2 of them. For my purpose, this should be sufficient. I’m just not sure if it’s the right specifications for the AC180 A few other questions: Is it possible to place a solar panel horizontally (see screenshot) instead of vertically? Or does this also have disadvantages. That would be more favorable for me, I would only have 2 square aluminum tubes of 2.80 mtr. on the roof and bring it to height at both ends and then secure it. And then attach the solar panels to it with supplied mounting feeds (L-shape). If the panels have to be placed vertically, I have to build a more complicated construction! How big should the space between the solar panel and the roof actually be in connection with possibly refrigeration?
This is the panel:
EcoFlow 175W Solar Panel with Mounting Brackets
€123.14 (including VAT 0%)
Properties
Weight: 9.3 kg
Dimensions: 117.6 x 76.2 x 3 cm
Rated Power: 175W* (±5W)
Celtype: N Type TOPCon monokristallijn silicium
Open terminal voltage: 25.5V*
Short circuit current: 8.3A*
Maximum operating voltage: 21.9V
Maximum operating current: 8A
Maximum system voltage: 600V
Maximum fuse current: 15A
Temperature coefficient nominal power: -0.30% / °C
Temperature coefficient open terminal voltage: -0.25% / °C
Temperature coefficient short-circuit current: 0.045% / °C
Warranty: 5 years
** Measured under standard test conditions: W/m2, AM1.5, 25°C (77°F)*
Flush mount to the roof with an air gap of around 4-6 inches for sufficient enough airflow. Panel orientation is best when the panels are parallel to the roof. Look up what the best weather sealing and hardware method is for your specific roof. Keep in mind since your panels are cheap, they are only optimized to retain 80% of their value for 5 years, and they have a higher temperature co-efficient meaning they will lose power the hotter it gets vs. other panels. Not by much, but heat is the enemy of panels and can prematurely kill them. But you also are paying cheaper so investment cost is worth it to you. This is very typical of these panels. Those two panels in series would be perfectly fine for your AC180.
@sealy Thanks for this great tip! This changes things a bit!
I am far from sure what exactly I should buy for my purpose.
As you indicated before, with fixed solar panels on my garden shed, when the AC180 is fully charged, there is still enough energy coming from the solar panels that is then not stored anywhere and thus makes this fixed setup basically useless, if I understood correctly.
For the time being, I don’t want to invest in an extra battery etc. etc. to be able to charge my AC180 from here. I first just want to get to know more about incidental charging with solar panels. For my goal, as I have indicated before, is to be able to charge my AC180 with solar energy and to be able to do so every now and then as needed in the event of a power failure.
In hindsight, I might have to go for a portable solar panel first, if it weren’t for the fact that I actually find them too expensive and insufficient in terms of durability and use.
Especially with regard to permanent use in weather influences, such as rain, wind, dust, etc.
In the context of a mobile solar panel I came across this OKIO 200 Watt, I hope and suspect that this could be something given price-quality? It seems to me that it is given the Alu-frames.
And it is more flexible in use for finding the right sunlight around the house!
And in terms of handling for off-grid activities, you also need such a mobile solar panel.
And for my current goal, it may even be enough.
Is it suitable for my AC180?
Because if I go for such a foldable, mobile solar panel it must have a solid Alu-frame, maybe there are others, I haven’t seen them yet anyway.
How do you see that! I would like your advice. I hope I don’t bother you too much?
@sealy As you can see i found the specifications!
IMP 11,11A and VMP 18 V For this panel is this 199 Watt, Correct me if i’m wrong!
Most reviews on Amazon and youtube are also very positive!
I would be sad if I couldn’t use it, personally for me it’s very important that it’s much sturdier than most portable solar panels I see passing by. And I also find the price acceptable € 170,-
Are there other Alu-panels like this one with better specifications that better fit the AC180 and my purpose?
That is very unfortunate and annoying
@sealy Thanks again for all your effort and honest judgment. I really appreciate this!
I think it is best to build a kind of transport cart myself with 2 good solar panels mounted (e.g. 2x 150W) that I can simply move in my garden according to needs and sun positions. And if I don’t use it anymore, e.g. in winter, then I just drive it inside my garage and cover it with a tarp, done! Approximately as shown in this image below and then tiltable with locking.
I would like to go for 2 of these panels:
Victron BlueSolar 150Wp mono ( x 668 x 30mm) price per piece €119,- (incl.)
This Victron BlueSolar Monocrystalline solar panel delivers a power of 150Wp at an open clamp voltage of 22.3V. For example, you can use it to charge and maintain a 12V battery. With multiple solar panels connected in series, you can also charge and maintain a 24V battery, or higher. The solar panel is wired with 80cm cables with MC4 plugs attached.
In an older topic on this forum I read the following:
“The solar input of the AC180 is 12v-60v at 10 amps. However, you will only get the full 10amp of solar power IF the volt is above 32v.”
When I connect both these panels series, I hope it won’t bother me?!
Open end voltage (Voc) is: 2x 22.5 Volt = 45 Volt. I must have that 10 amps if I understood correctly?
Details
Rated Power (Pmpp): 150 Watts
Open terminal voltage (Voc): 22.5 Volts
Max. power current (Impp): 8.25 Amps (only with sufficient solar output)
Solar panel type: Monocrystalline/ Monocrystal
Cell technology: Mono-Si
Workable temperature: -40 to +85 degrees Celsius
Panel dimensions: x 668 x 30mm
Weight: 11 kg
Guarantee
You have a 5-year limited warranty on materials and manufacturing of the solar panel itself and a 25-year limited warranty on power delivery and performance!
I think this is a pretty good choice and should be compatible with the AC180!? Otherwise I wouldn’t know anymore!
I am only starting with solar energy and am therefore a complete layman in that respect, but I find it very interesting and exciting and have been wildly enthusiastic so far. For now, I try to take in as much as possible and think logically about this matter. You should know that I have to have everything translated before I can post, which can sometimes come across as a bit flawed. I apologize for this. In any case, I am happy with so much expertise on this forum! Thank you!
Is there anything that can be changed technically or perhaps another solution?
If due to circumstances I want to put the AC180 indoors, in the garage or living room while charging with solar panels and therefore have to extend the cable of the solar panels, what is the maximum length and the possibly. thickness in mm2 of such a cable in terms of proper operation and safety?
I have looked at everything around the house again in terms of the sun positions throughout the day because of the best placement of the panels and have come to the conclusion that it is the roof of the garden shed which was actually the intention. The roof is completely south-facing. I have full sunlight from early in the morning until late at night.
You have also made me think with all the information about more storage potential of house batteries for the future. I can therefore better realize this in the garden shed.
My option to make the panels mobile is ultimately too much hassle with stability etc. When I have a little more experience with solar panels, I might still do that. Tomorrow the panels will arrive and I can finally get started. When I am done with the job I will post a picture of the result.
Thanks again for all your cooperation.
Very useful information for a newbie like me!
You’re welcome! I would say if you wanted to expand the house batteries, then a different charging setup other than the Bluetti AC180 is preferred, as the AC180 is not designed with expansion in mind like the ELITE or “200” series power stations are. In other words, the AC180 is just meant for mobile power. I live full time out of my vehicle so I utilize the portable folding Bluetti panels (I have two PV350s, a solar blanket, and a PV200), plus a backup LP generator, plus car charging.
One of the common misconceptions is you need solar for a house setup. Depends on if you are off grid or not. Depends how often you lose power. Sometimes you just need enough power for a brownout or blackout, which in case, just having enough house battery power to last you through downtime completely eliminates the need for solar.
If the solar panel goes over 20 amps, does the bluetti stop at 20 amps, or does it reject the power all together?
The MPPT controller regulates what it will accept and so in your case anything past 20 amps +/- a very few milliamps will get rejected. Your power station will be perfectly happy and just simply not use the remaining current (amps). It won’t shut off or refuse to charge or anything like that, it’s just a hard limit. So whatever the volts and amps is coming in is what you get. Of the watts coming in, you won’t convert directly 100% of those watts into storage. Charging efficiency may only be say 90% of that. So if see 100 watts coming in, you are really “storing” 85-90 or so. Likewise with charging, you also don’t get 100% of your discharge performance due to losses. Say on the AC side you may only get 70% efficiency under a small load. It’s not exactly linear. If I consumed something on AC at 100 watts, it won’t take the same amount of time to recharge at 100 watts to get back all my power. It will take even longer. So say you had a power station that was wh running at constant load of 100 watts with inverter losses. Your runtime would be 10 hours obviously (10X100), but recharging would take 1.1X that since its only 90% efficient meaning it would take 11 hours to recharge that same amount of power back. So to give you an example on my AC180 (Wh) if I run my dehumidifer at constant load of 285W, assuming its 85% efficient my runtime would be around 3.5 hours. If I was solar charging at 285W, it would take me 4.5 hours to recharge it. 1 more hour spent charging than consuming. So for every 25% of my power station, I’m spending 15 MORE minutes recharging to get back what I used.
The drawback of this is obviously don’t buy a panel that has too high of an amperage because its wasted money. Buy two 15’s and you will get 20 and lose 10!
And what if I put them in series, the voltage is too much. Does the Bluetti cap the voltage, or will something bad happen, or will the Bluetti outright reject the charge?
You would pray overvoltage kicks in and the power station even prevents you from using the panels together like that. If not, bye bye power station and warranty.
Hello @jwb16
The two solar MPPT controller inputs in the Apex 300 have an input voltage range of 12 to 60 volts. Since your existing solar controller’s range is 60 to 145 volts, then it is safe to say that your solar array’s Voc is going to be somewhere over 60 volts. That means you will not be able to connect your array to the Apex 300 as it is currently.
It would appear that there are only two options for you. The first would be to rewire the array such that the Voc of the array (whether a single array or split into two arrays) is less than 60 volts, and if you get cold weather, ideally the target Voc should be close to 50 volts. This may be difficult to do, depending on the panels. For example, I have a watt array. The Voc is 111 volts, too much for the Apex 300 built-in MPPT controllers. My panels each have a Voc of 37 volts so I cannot put any in series as that would be 74 volts. With the 20 amp limit on the Apex 300 and using the panels in parallel only the Vmp (max power) will be 30.3 volts, the power could only get up to 606 watts. Now, I already have them split as two arrays, but I can only get to watts from my watt arrays by using the built-in MPPT controllers.
So, your second option is also mine, the SolarX 4K accessory. That allows up to watts, and also 500 Voc. Your having a watt array with a limit of watts isn’t a waste though, as it will give you extra solar charging on the morning and evening end of daylight, and better performance in cloudy weather. I prefer over paneling.
Anyway, those are my thoughts, mostly from myself thinking it through from a similar position. I hope this helps.
Quick edit as I forgot to mention, you cannot add an extra charge controller between the arrays you have and the built-in MPPT controllers on the Apex 300.
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