May. 06, 2024
Rubber & Plastics
In order to prepare a new compressor for installation, it will need to be primed. Not doing so may cause serious damage and void the compressor’s warranty. Priming a compressor involves adding oil to both the receiver-dryer and suction port of the compressor to lubricate it for use. Prior to starting the process, it is vital to know the oil capacity for both the system and the compressor prior to starting. This information can be found on our Spec Database.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website car air conditioning hoses.
Once you have determined the proper amount of lubricant your compressor needs, pour half of the specified into the suction port of the compressor and the other half into the receiver-dryer. After the compressor is installed into the vehicle, you will need to rotate the compressor clutch 10 to 20 times to ensure that the oil is properly distributed throughout the system and the compressor. Tools will be required for this. Be careful to not turn the compressor nut in the middle of the pulley as it may affect the air clearance between the clutch pulley and the clutch faceplate. After you have rotated the pulley 10 to 20 complete revolutions, the priming procedure will be complete and the compressor will be properly primed.
View Full Version : Heat & A/C Air conditioning hose replacement
adrian d
Hello everyone,
My air conditioning system has a leak in the driver's side long hose that goes under the car. As I understand it, this is a very expensive fix at a service center that I can't afford right now. I've found Hervey's replacement hoses that split them in two halves to make installation easier and doable in my garage. http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/AC-Cooling.html
I'm curious, does anyone have experience with this part? Installation and performance?
Thank you all,
Adrian Dunker
10674
DavidProehl
I've had Hervey's A/C hoses installed for 2 years and haven't had any issues. It has been leak free. DPI has a single hose that can be installed without removing the tub from the frame which should have a lower chance of failure, but I've been happy with Hervey's hoses.
Bitsyncmaster
I now have done two cars which I could not get the low side hose installed down the frame with the Hervey hoses. I guess it's the luck of how your frame is mated to the body. I clamped the hose beside the closing plate.
So if money does not matter (DPIs cost more), get the DPI hose set.
Andrew
Since it sounds like cost is a significant factor, if the leak was caused by the hose rubbing against another part (i.e. a metal bracket or the exhaust) you could try splicing it with a proper A/C splice kit sold by most auto parts stores. (make sure to lube the heck out of the hose and the splice pipe before installing it to make the install easier) However, if the hose burst from age / rot, you would probably want to replace the entire hose.
The hose that runs down the drivers side frame rail is the high pressure side. It is easier to run down the frame than the low side hose on the passenger side.
Whenever you remove an A/C hose always use two wrenches, and be careful not to break the condenser! The OEM serpentine condensers are NLA, and the tube-and-fin replacements aren't as efficient. However, if you go with a splice repair, you might be able to avoid removing the hose from the car depending on the location of the leak.
David T
Since it sounds like cost is a significant factor, if the leak was caused by the hose rubbing against another part (i.e. a metal bracket or the exhaust) you could try splicing it with a proper A/C splice kit sold by most auto parts stores. (make sure to lube the heck out of the hose and the splice pipe before installing it to make the install easier) However, if the hose burst from age / rot, you would probably want to replace the entire hose.
The hose that runs down the drivers side frame rail is the high pressure side. It is easier to run down the frame than the low side hose on the passenger side.
Whenever you remove an A/C hose always use two wrenches, and be careful not to break the condenser! The OEM serpentine condensers are NLA, and the tube-and-fin replacements aren't as efficient. However, if you go with a splice repair, you might be able to avoid removing the hose from the car depending on the location of the leak.
You should replace all three hoses and the dryer/accumulator. To do a proper service you should also replace the valve cores and the oil. You may also need the idler bearings and vee belt. Hervey's hoses are easy to install. Do not try splicing, field splices of old hose just leak and the hose will just leak in another spot. 30 year old hoses are WAY past their life. The OEM hoses were never meant to be spliced but that doesn't stop people trying to do it!
DMCMW Dave
I now have done two cars which I could not get the low side hose installed down the frame with the Hervey hoses. I guess it's the luck of how your frame is mated to the body. I clamped the hose beside the closing plate.
Funny thing - we routinely install unspliced hoses without lifting the body at all. So do the other dealers. Not sure why people think it's so impossible. It takes a bit of finesse but it works.
My worry about the spliced hose config is that you have introduced six new leak points into the system (the two splices and the 4 hose ends involved).
sdg3205
Funny thing - we routinely install unspliced hoses without lifting the body at all. So do the other dealers. Not sure why people think it's so impossible. It takes a bit of finesse but it works.
My worry about the spliced hose config is that you have introduced six new leak points into the system (the two splices and the 4 hose ends involved).
I have done the hose along the drivers side by myself. Toby also replaced the hose along the passenger side on a different car. Totally doable.
axh174
I'm going to chime in here with a little bit of my experience. I have had Hervey's hoses installed for 5 years now, and I don't have any complaints. They've been working well and were mostly easy to install.
I say mostly because I've discovered that my car seems to be a little bit more quirky that others. The driver's side hose went in without any issue; it slid rid up along the frame and fit like a glove. The passenger's side, though, took a lot of tweaking, pulling (and maybe a teensy bit of pounding) to get through some of the bends of the frame. It almost felt as though my epoxy was twice as thick as others and that little bit of extra thickness was causing the hose to get stuck (ask me about replacing my flexible brake lines to know why I think this).
But because of it, I did get some advice: if possible, use a jack to apply just a little bit of lift to the body of the car, not the frame. This little bit of lift opens the space between the fiberglass body and the frame just enough to allow for easy insertion of the passenger's side hose. It was also suggested that I may need to loosen the bolts holding the body to the frame, but I didn't have to do that.
Anybody else have to do this?
tl;dr: Love the hoses, I recommend them. If installing, you may need to try opening the passenger's side frame/body gap slightly for easy fit.
Andrew
You should replace all three hoses and the dryer/accumulator. To do a proper service you should also replace the valve cores and the oil. You may also need the idler bearings and vee belt. Hervey's hoses are easy to install. Do not try splicing, field splices of old hose just leak and the hose will just leak in another spot. 30 year old hoses are WAY past their life. The OEM hoses were never meant to be spliced but that doesn't stop people trying to do it!
I've been running a field spliced hose on 4194 since 2001, after 30,000 plus miles there is no sign of leakage at the splice. Interestingly, the splice that I used on 4194 was very similar to the splice that I found under the hood of my 85 Fleetwood Limo that the coachbuilder installed for the rear A/C system. The triple barb splice provides an excellent seal...the clamps are just to keep everything in place.
With the exception of the accumulator and the low side hose fitting, 5052's A/C system is original. I converted 5052 to 134a last year after the car, and the A/C system had been sitting for approximately 20 years. In the past week I drove 700 + miles and system delivered consistent vent temps in the low 40's...cold enough that I could see my breath. Admittedly, I did have to add a half a pound of R134a earlier this spring; however, with Sam's Club selling 30 pound tanks of R134a for $89.99, I could continue topping off the system for the rest of my natural life for less than the cost of replacing the hoses.
Just last night I used the A/C in my 1972 Buick Riviera, which is running around with 43 year old hoses and it kicked out ice cubes.
It would be interesting to see how many A/C hoses fail as a result of a dry rot-based burst. My guess is that the failure rate for that reason is pretty low. In contrast, I would hypothesize that most hose failures are the result of a hose rubbing on a metal part, being melted due to a heat source, or pressurized beyond its designed specs.
By the way, while I have always been of the school of thought that an accumulator should be replaced whenever doing an R12 to R134a conversion, there are owners who disagree with that practice, and have converted their car to 134a by simply changing the compressor oil, fittings and adjusting the low pressure switch. Due to the location of the accumulator on a DeLorean, replacement can present a number of challenges. As referenced above, on 5052 the accumulator fitting seized solid and sheered off in the low side hose. Notably, 5052 was an 11,500 mile car that until last year spent its entire existence in Oklahoma and Texas. The A/C accumulator was the only seized component I have encountered on the entire car. In contrast, the brake lines all freed up with the gentle tap of a line wrench. Thankfully I was able to remove the connection to the evaporator! The problem with the replacement of A/C components on a DeLorean is that attempting to replace one hose can turn into replacement of an entire system...it turns into one seized part after another. Ask anyone who has replaced an evaporator core on a DeLorean if they want to repeat the experience.
In summary, are new A/C hoses better than old ones...probably. Look on the bright side, neither R12 nor R134a are flammable; thus, even if a hose were to fail it would only result in a loss of A/C function...not a fire. However, in a car with a lot of stuff that is approximately 34 years old, I would be more concerned with 34 year old high pressure fuel hoses or 34 year old coolant hoses than 34 year old A/C hoses, but that's just me :-)
Andrew
Hello everyone,
My air conditioning system has a leak in the driver's side long hose that goes under the car. As I understand it, this is a very expensive fix at a service center that I can't afford right now. I've found Hervey's replacement hoses that split them in two halves to make installation easier and doable in my garage. http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/AC-Cooling.html
I'm curious, does anyone have experience with this part? Installation and performance?
Thank you all,
Adrian Dunker
10674
Adrian, just out of curiosity, where is the leak in the hose?
DMCMW Dave
Most common leak overall - shrader valves.
Most common damage leak - hose rubs on the steering column
Most common installer error leak - hose melts on the crossover pipe
Other common leakers - O-rings at condenser, low pressure switch.
Not as common but we've seen a few:
Evap core (usually a fast leak)
Compressor bearing;
Return hose about every 5 inches for the whole length of the hose;
Either hose when some idiot replaces the gas tank cover screws with longer screws, or leaves out all the washers. Pokes nice 8 mm holes in the hoses where they pass over the ends of the screws.
Crossover hose due to the sharp bend in the hose, and the high pressure switch/blowoff valve.
kings1527
But because of it, I did get some advice: if possible, use a jack to apply just a little bit of lift to the body of the car, not the frame. This little bit of lift opens the space between the fiberglass body and the frame just enough to allow for easy insertion of the passenger's side hose. It was also suggested that I may need to loosen the bolts holding the body to the frame, but I didn't have to do that.
Anybody else have to do this?
tl;dr: Love the hoses, I recommend them. If installing, you may need to try opening the passenger's side frame/body gap slightly for easy fit.
Exactly what I had to do. Just a tad of lift from a jack applied to the fiberglass tub, maybe about 1/4", and that fixed any kind of hose hangup on the passenger's side during installation. If I had to install Hervey hoses again on my car, I could do it in probably 30 min from start to finish without rushing at all.
Chris4099
But because of it, I did get some advice: if possible, use a jack to apply just a little bit of lift to the body of the car, not the frame. This little bit of lift opens the space between the fiberglass body and the frame just enough to allow for easy insertion of the passenger's side hose. It was also suggested that I may need to loosen the bolts holding the body to the frame, but I didn't have to do that.
Anybody else have to do this?
There was once a thread somewhere here where a person was having issues installing John's passenger side split hose. A person recommended they lift the car by the body and not the frame and sure enough, he was then able to install the hose. When I installed my split hoses, I used a two post lift which lifts by the body and I had no issues at all. Slid right in. The frame seems to flex down just enough to give it the room it needs.
I just checked my notes and I last charged my AC system back in Dec of 2008. No recharge since! So John's hoses work great and the extra connection has been trouble free. If I were to re-due my AC system now, I would probably go with DPI's since it's a newer style hose. But with the barrier hose I have now, it should last a very long time, so I have no regrets.
I'm a big believer in replacing all hoses though, not just one if it fails. Skip NOS and go new. With all new modern hoses, you should get long life without ongoing recharges needed.
David T
Most common leak overall - shrader valves.
Most common damage leak - hose rubs on the steering column
Most common installer error leak - hose melts on the crossover pipe
Other common leakers - O-rings at condenser, low pressure switch.
Not as common but we've seen a few:
Evap core (usually a fast leak)
Compressor bearing;
Return hose about every 5 inches for the whole length of the hose;
Either hose when some idiot replaces the gas tank cover screws with longer screws, or leaves out all the washers. Pokes nice 8 mm holes in the hoses where they pass over the ends of the screws.
Crossover hose due to the sharp bend in the hose, and the high pressure switch/blowoff valve.
Replace the cores with better ones and use brass caps, not the plastic dust covers. Typically the leaks will start with the high side components because they are working the hardest handling the highest pressures and the hottest temperatures. That includes the discharge hose and schrader valve and the sealing "O" rings at the connections.
DMCMW Dave
Replace the cores with better ones and use brass caps, not the plastic dust covers..
I'll disagree with this one. I've seen too many cars where the brass caps get wrenched on so hard that they taper the opening. Then when you go to replace the shrader valves, they get stuck or, worse, break and fall into the hoses. The plastic caps will have O-rings in them and seal good enough.
David T
I'll disagree with this one. I've seen too many cars where the brass caps get wrenched on so hard that they taper the opening. Then when you go to replace the shrader valves, they get stuck or, worse, break and fall into the hoses. The plastic caps will have O-rings in them and seal good enough.
We can agree to disagree. The plastic caps are only to keep the valves clean, not to hold against pressure. If you aren't going to use the brass caps because some ham-handed people overtighten them, that logic can be extended to a LOT of things. If the brass caps leak you use an "O" ring or a copper flare gasket, not try to overtighten the caps. This is just one more reason only experienced A/C guys should be doing some of this stuff.
DMCMW Dave
We can agree to disagree. The plastic caps are only to keep the valves clean, not to hold against pressure. If you aren't going to use the brass caps because some ham-handed people overtighten them, that logic can be extended to a LOT of things. If the brass caps leak you use an "O" ring or a copper flare gasket, not try to overtighten the caps. This is just one more reason only experienced A/C guys should be doing some of this stuff.
If that was true they would not have O-rings in them. They do. BTW every modern car from the R134 era to now has plastic caps. There is nothing inherently leaky about plastic.
And - I've opened enough plastic caps to the sound of "sst" from the bad Schrader that I do know they hold pressure. At least some.
Bitsyncmaster
If that was true they would not have O-rings in them. They do. BTW every modern car from the R134 era to now has plastic caps. There is nothing inherently leaky about plastic.
And - I've opened enough plastic caps to the sound of "sst" from the bad Schrader that I do know they hold pressure. At least some.
I have never seen an R134a cap made of metal. Yes the plastic caps should have an o-ring in them and so do the metal R12 (R22) caps.
DMC5180
This brings up a good question. Are the valve cores used in A/C systems made with specific compatible materials and rated for high pressures? IE not your typical tire valve core.
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit dredging hoses.
David T
This brings up a good question. Are the valve cores used in A/C systems made with specific compatible materials and rated for high pressures? IE not your typical tire valve core.
Yes, you CANNOT use ordinary tire valve cores. They are not rated for the pressure and temperature used in A/C systems. And they do wear out and need to be replaced.
adrian d
Adrian, just out of curiosity, where is the leak in the hose?
My leak (that I know of) is on the driver's side hose just when it starts to go under the car from the engine bay. I'm not sure if a splice is the right way to go for me. I have original hoses too so I think replacing them will be the best.
Thank you to everyone for your knowledge and advice. Are there any tutorials or step-by-step instructions on an ac system hose replacement or update? I already run R134a.
Thanks again,
Adrian Dunker
10674
82DMC12
I just replaced all my hoses, compressor, dryer, variable orifice, and switches with Hervey's set. Yes the suction hose very hard to push through the frame... done it on two different cars now. It will work but I had to use a punch and a mallet to tap it through the frame where it bends behind the battery area. It was so frustrating that I almost gave up and bought DPI's set, which are smaller diameter but as mentioned, more expensive.
In the end it worked out... I had the system vacuumed yesterday for over three hours before charging... nice and tight now!
bfloyd
I just received my new hose set from DPI. Looks like a puzzle with no instructions. Anybody got any helpful hints?
cdrusn
Everyone mentions how tight it is to squeeze the new hoses in but there is an easy way. Just lift the fiberglass tub up above the frame. All you have to do is take out the front bolt above the shock bolt in the trunk, take out the bolts on the console tunnel (have to take out the seat and flip the carpet up), put a 2x4 on the fiberglass and pick it up off the frame. I bought Hervey's hoses and spent 3 hours without moving an inch. Picked up the tub in 30 minutes and the hose almost went through on it's own like a snake. Make sure to have a heat resistant material above the exhaust (I used wonderboard). :wrenchin:
DMC5180
I just received my new hose set from DPI. Looks like a puzzle with no instructions. Anybody got any helpful hints?
It's easier to answer a specific question. More importantly, which kit did you purchase? Hoses only or with compressor?
Dennis
DMCMW Dave
I just received my new hose set from DPI. Looks like a puzzle with no instructions. Anybody got any helpful hints?
Call the seller?
Bitsyncmaster
I just received my new hose set from DPI. Looks like a puzzle with no instructions. Anybody got any helpful hints?
Here are the instructions off the manufacture web site.
bfloyd
t's easier to answer a specific question. More importantly, which kit did you purchase? Hoses only or with compressor?
I bought the full kit with hoses and compressor. My kit included all of the fittings, hoses, accumulator, orifice tube, hose clamps, etc., and a new back plate for the compressor. I contacted Josh and he said the compressor will ship separately. It should be here any day. New condenser is on the way from John Hervey, and should arrive later this week.
I'm not an automotive air conditioning repair guy.... I own a drive-in movie theatre, so I really don't have a clue how all of these fittings are supposed to connect to what.
I know I can call Josh if necessary, as he has been more than helpful in the past.
Trying to decide if I tackle this on my own or take it all to my local mechanic and say "You figure it out".
Does anyone have a completed set of photos they've taken of this installation?
Delorean Industries
I ended up making a massive instruction pack with this product. I'll make sure to get you a copy over to you asap.
bfloyd
I ended up making a massive instruction pack with this product. I'll make sure to get you a copy over to you asap.
And THAT'S why I don't mind spending a little extra money on premium parts.
Thank you Josh... I look forward to receiving them soon.
Delorean Industries
It ended up being close to nine pages long and includes handy pictures, diagrams etc. Should keep you out of trouble.
Drive Stainless
I bought the full kit with hoses and compressor. My kit included all of the fittings, hoses, accumulator, orifice tube, hose clamps, etc., and a new back plate for the compressor. I contacted Josh and he said the compressor will ship separately. It should be here any day. New condenser is on the way from John Hervey, and should arrive later this week.
I'm not an automotive air conditioning repair guy.... I own a drive-in movie theatre, so I really don't have a clue how all of these fittings are supposed to connect to what.
I know I can call Josh if necessary, as he has been more than helpful in the past.
Trying to decide if I tackle this on my own or take it all to my local mechanic and say "You figure it out".
Does anyone have a completed set of photos they've taken of this installation?
I tried the JH condenser a few years ago. The holes didn't line up w/ the ones on the radiator, so it went back, and I ordered a new one from DMCMW. I'm surprised you didn't order all of the parts from the same vendor?
Delorean Industries
We are currently out of stock on our condenser assemblies (now made in house like our radiators and waiting on core components).
DMC-81
This brings up a good question. Are the valve cores used in A/C systems made with specific compatible materials and rated for high pressures? IE not your typical tire valve core.
Hi there,
I want to change the 2 Schrader valve cores on my compressor when I open up my A/C system, and I have a few related questions on replacing them with quality, appropriate ones:
1) What valve material is best, aluminum or brass?
2) What seal material is best: HNBC, Neoprene, Teflon, etc?
3) I understand they are a standard 1/4" size, correct?
4) Any preferred brands, like original Schrader, etc.?
I have the original compressor with brass caps, running R12. Given that this is reported to be one of the most common leak points in the system, and you can't change them once the system is full, I figure choosing the right ones would be good.
Thanks,
DMC5180
You can simply Google A/C valve cores and that will bring up the appropriate ones. They are different seal material from tire valves.
You could just go to your local Auto Parts store and see what they have for A/C type valves. Take an old one with you.
Dennis
DMC5180
When I replaced my A/C lines earlier this summer, I had to remove the cores from the replacement charge ports to install 134a quick coupler adapters. These are those removed cores.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/8c7e337f9bbccc5edc5d0d52f10fbef0.jpg
They are a combination Brass and Stainless steel construction.
Dennis
Bitsyncmaster
Hi there,
I want to change the 2 Schrader valve cores on my compressor when I open up my A/C system, and I have a few related questions on replacing them with quality, appropriate ones:
1) What valve material is best, aluminum or brass?
2) What seal material is best: HNBC, Neoprene, Teflon, etc?
3) I understand they are a standard 1/4" size, correct?
4) Any preferred brands, like original Schrader, etc.?
I have the original compressor with brass caps, running R12. Given that this is reported to be one of the most common leak points in the system, and you can't change them once the system is full, I figure choosing the right ones would be good.
Thanks,
AC valve cores usually are deeper in the stem than a tire valve so you probably will need the removal tool like this.
http://www.acsource.com/r134avalvecoretool.aspx
DMC5180
Plus a couple of these.
http://www.acsource.com/valvecore59346a.aspx
Dennis
DMC-81
Thanks Dennis and Dave. That's very helpful. Appreciate the vendor link as well.
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