Fuel injectors, carburetors, and electric fuel pumps can be harmed by relatively small particles. To keep your car running at peak performance you need to choose a filter with the right micron rating and element type.
For more information, please visit Xuhaifa Filter.
Micron Ratings
A micron is so small it can’t be seen by the naked eye. Micron ratings on filters typically range between 2 and 100. The lower the number, the smaller the particle it will filter out reliably. You don’t always want the lowest micron filter you can get because they can clog up. Follow these recommendations depending on where the filter is and what type of fuel system you have.
Further reading:What is the Advantage and Disadvantage of metal car compression springs
For more motorcycle fuel filterinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
- 100 Micron Filters are usually used as pre-filters to protect fuel pumps and keep larger debris from clogging your post-pump filter. They can be mounted in-line before the pump or in the tank. Pre-filters in the tank are often called “sock filters” or “fuel strainers”
- 40 Micron filters are generally used for carbureted engines after the fuel pump. It’s a good idea to use these along with a 100 micron pre-filter even with a mechanical fuel pump.
- 10 Micron Filters are used after the fuel filter with fuel injected engines and must be used along with 100 micron pre-filter.
Filter Element Types
When choosing your filter’s element material you should consider fuel compatibility, reusability, and position in your fuel system.
Are you interested in learning more about oil filter factory? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!
- Paper filters are often referred to as cellulose filters and are usually disposable.
- Paper filters should not be used with methanol or fuels containing more than 20% ethanol
- Stainless-steel filters are compatible with all fuels and can typically be cleaned and reused.
- Micro Glass filters are for post-pump use only and are disposable.
Fuel Filter Elements and Compatible fuels
Fuel types
Filter Element type
Stainless Mesh
pre / post pump
Paper / Cellulose
pre / post pump
Micro Glass
Post pump only
Pump Gas And Race gas
87 octane to 120 octane
x
x
x
Diesel Fuel
x
x
x
Methanol
x
x
Ethanol and Ethanol Based fuels (E85)
x
x
That sock (as I call it) filter in the tank is kind of a #$%* to service but it does keep the crap out of the petcock that will ruin it over time. The inlines keep the secondary crap out of your carbs. I would like to be able to keep the sock over the petcock (primary filter) and run an in line that is big enough to let fuel flow (secondary) but mount it in a spot that doesn't bind it up or make it a pain to service. Unfortunately,Honda didn't give us much to work with. Any ideas are always welcome with me. I have had problems taking the petcock out and getting a good seal afterwards....thats why I don't like to service the sock filter in the tank.
Dumb question; can you still buy the OEM sock?
Item #06: STRAINER SET -341-671 Qty: 001 $21.71
It's listed on the parts fiche, but does anyone know if it is still available (although I suppose I could call them tomorrow...)? Dumping the in-lines would help clean things up around the carb.
IMHO any questions regarding parts availability for a motorcycle over thirty years old just can't be a "dumb question" - by definition.
I bought two of the above part from my local dealer (Toronto) a few months back. When the parts guy looked it up on the computer he said there were two in Vancouver, so I'd have to wait a couple of weeks. I guess they're just getting harder to get (which is why I bought two). I thought the price was a bit steep, but when I received them I could see they are, indeed, an assembly or "set". You get the "sock" with a couple of (relatively unique) washers (including the flat sided rubber one with the two holes in it) and a nice shiney plumbing nut. (The new nut motivated me to really clean up the valve handle and housing, just so they didn't look so grimey in comparison.) (There must be a name for that little rubber specialty washer - I just don't know what it is.)
When I pulled the old sock out of my tank, it was intact but almost solid with rust. I cleaned it out well, and kept it for a backup. As far as the inline filter on my bike goes - I'm wanting to fall over to TT's approach to the issue. (Last winter I had the inside stripped and relined - it's very clean now.) My (albeit limited) sense of it is to get rid of the in-line filter. I don't really trust it, I'm not sure if it's a finer fliter than the sock, and there's so little room on the line. If I could find that proper gas line I bought last year for my bike, I'd get rid of the filter tonight. But I misplaced it, so I'll wait.
I wonder if it's possible to find out to what micron level that Honda "sock" filters? There's certainly little advantage in putting anything down the line which has a fatter rating.
Cheers,
Bill
Item #06: STRAINER SET -341-671 Qty: 001 $21.71
Is that for the sock, the screen or the whole rebuild kit? I have bought dozens of the screens but seems like 5-10 bucks sounds par?
As for external filters:
I think it all good if you like it but TT is correct. If it's all in good nick then it's all in good nick....... right?
I have removed the sock and screen and use the beer can size filter to get the residule crap out of the tank. After a few hundred cleaning sessions, I replace the stock items and no more problems. Catch it on empty and clean the screen. By the end of riding season, all is good.
As for those little pointy things, took a fat 10mph off my top speed on a CB450. Drove me nuts. The 450 has smallish float bowls and I was running outta fuel. The fuel system was like a wine glass, clean as it can get but I was hungup on this "filter thing" They flowed just enough to keep it going. If it had been a hot motor, I would have holed a piston or two!!!!!!!
Just because you can blow through it doesn't mean that it is still OK. Cost of riding, check and/or change fuel filters every couple months. We're only talking a couple bucks dammmmmmmmmmm.
The problem with fuel hose is that the type that has the right inside diameter...I think
everyone uses quarter inch...has too big an outside diameter and won't fit through the
routing holes in the carb backing plate. Most hoses have too high a pressure rating.
Probably the best type to use is auto vacuum hose if you want the black stuff.
Jim
I wouldn't suggest vacuum line for fuel. It's not made to carry fuel, and likely will not hold up over time. I went nuts looking for 5.5 mm fuel line in the auto parts stores and specialty places locally. Finally got the Honda dealer to order some Honda line in the size I need. The last bit of line lasted more than 20 years, so I figured over time the price will be worth it.
So you are saying the old black rubber fuel line that came on the bike originally won't hold up to California gas? When I got fuel line at the dealership here,they gave me the clear plastic line that does have the fatter OD. So now I'm wondering if I can still get the original rubber hose. As far as the "petcock screen".....I think that was only on the early models with the petcock on the right side of the tank (screen in chamber that unscrews from bottom of petcock). When the petcock moved to the left side of tank (74-75), the petcock "bowl" was discontinued and they went to the sock inside the tank covering the fuel pickup tubes. I also wouldn't use regular vacuum hose. I don't think its up for the job.
So you are saying the old black rubber fuel line that came on the bike originally won't hold up to California gas? When I got fuel line at the dealership here,they gave me the clear plastic line that does have the fatter OD. So now I'm wondering if I can still get the original rubber hose. As far as the "petcock screen".....I think that was only on the early models with the petcock on the right side of the tank (screen in chamber that unscrews from bottom of petcock). When the petcock moved to the left side of tank (74-75), the petcock "bowl" was discontinued and they went to the sock inside the tank covering the fuel pickup tubes. I also wouldn't use regular vacuum hose. I don't think its up for the job.
I have taken to using a urethane hose that does not need to be clamped, in fact once on it needs to be cut off. It is used for go carts. f
The warning here is for black hose happily sold to you by ignorant auto parts salesmen and is usually marked as vacuum hose. This hose is not rated to withstand the chemicals found in gasoline, and deteriorates quickly. It is, however, the perfect size for out SOHC4 fuel fittings: 7/32 which is as close to 5.5mm as you need to get.
There are many formulations of rubber that are tinted black. But, just becasue a hose is black does not stipulate a specific formulation.
The only place I've been able to find 5.5mm hose is the Honda dealer. It had a bulk number and I bought a length of it in bag: 5 or 10 ft, I think. It is black. Don't remember the price, though. California gas doesn't seem to accelerate the Honda hose breakdown any more than simple age does. This stuff probably should be replaced every 20 years or so, as that's when the ends where it is stretched over the nipples start to split.
I have yet to find clear tubing that won't harden within 5 years. But, I gave up looking when I bought the bulk hose from Honda about 15 years ago.
Cheers,
All Comments ( 0 )