hell yes dont get cheap i have a ok et from screwfix but purchased a couple from ebay tried them out the other week and the threads stripped right out!
Looking to buy just one 50mm core drill not a set. What brand is decent?
Pretty sure I replied to this earlier, perhaps I didn't send it.
Anyway, for concrete block pretty much any diamond drill bit will do. If they are not bone dry you'll need to use water.
i'm after a core drill to cut a single 5" diameter hole in a prefab concrete panel. (the thin, unreinforced, infill, not the "frame")
can i take the same recomendations as the OP?
all the prefab conctete garage panels have reinforcement rods through them
Anyone else thinking Hatton Garden?
that's hilti . well over priced but good quality. having said that the amount they made of the job well compensated for the outlay surprised hilti didn't use it for advertisement on how good they are
Yep they at least have wire in them. 4 or 5mm smooth wire mesh or thereabouts usually.
ive already removed/smashed one of the panels to fit a side door.
reinforcement in the thicker "frame" of the panel.
the thinner infill part does not have any.
Aah, well that's unusual.
its old - 40-50 years at a guess.
ive had it 30 years, and it was my auntie's before that - she replaced it because it was "old"
The thin walled 5" drill bits will do that but you absolutely must use water coolant or you'll cook the diamond segments.
Ebay has this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/127mm-x-165mm-NEW-Dry-Diamond-Core-Drill/
Pete, or anyone else. What is the difference between the diamond core drills where one is described as dry and another as wet? Using cooling water is logical and makes sense, but are we missing something in respect of those specified as dry?
i'm after a core drill to cut a single 5" diameter hole in a prefab concrete panel. (the thin, unreinforced, infill, not the "frame")
can i take the same recomendations as the OP?
This 127mm dia will be big enough for your 5 inch hole panel job. These Diamond Jack brands seem thicker at the business end than others I have seen. I don`t know if that is a good thing or not.
http://www.diamondjack.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_18_31&products_id=582
There is a guy on E Bay selling what appears to be the same thing but a lot cheaper??
Here is a link to the 127 mm size.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diamond-...m=&_trksid=p.c.m
I need to drill in tile/ceramics on a project that is close to being finished. Not the typical "single accessory add on" that requires two holes, but round about 30 holes in total. 6 & 8 mm.
The couple of holes I needed to drill into tile/ceramics in the past were drilled using the Festool CE Stone drill bits (or Bosch multi construction drill bits) and under extensive (water) cooling. That works generally, but it is not exactly the fastest nor most convenient solution.
I was chatting with one of my suppliers the other day, because I'm generally interested in Eibenstock's battery powered diamond wet cutting drill. ->https://www.eibenstock.com/en/produ...-wet-core-drilling/diamond-wet-drill-end-40-a
In my opinion its an interesting machine powered by Metabo CAS batteries & there are adapters available directly from the manufacturer so you can use existing (angle grinder) drill bits with M14 thread, for example.
The supplier then recommended also looking into dry cutting with Paraffin/wax core cooled diamond dry cutting drill bits which are available with 1/4" hex shaft for drill/driver use and M14 thread for angle grinder use.
I did my research, and now I would like to hear "the good, the bad, the ugly" from real world experience.
The idea of dry cutting with a self cooling drill bit and using regular dust extraction is very intriguing to me, actually more than a new machine, even if water cooled, right now.
The main difference seems speed. The water-cooled Eibenstock linked above will drill with RPM (no load), if I use the self cooling dry cutters I'm limited to RPM and depending on manufacturer/supplier to different cooling off times/ use cases. I have not found reliable information on the M14 thread bits, if they require an angle grinder with speed control. Because if they don't, they will go far beyond RPM.
Looking deeper into that, there are suggestions of drilling not more than 30 seconds at a time with those self cooling dry cutters, others simply say not recommended for serial drilling.
To me that is a big difference. The first suggestion is pretty clear, the latter, well - I would think that - drilling two or three holes into the tile/ceramics with the self cooling drill bits, then switching to regular drill bits to finish said holes, fixing the accessories, then going for the next holes with the self cooling bits, (...) - is not exactly exzessive/ or "serial drilling".
But judging by ratings/ user reviews I've read, a fair amount of people have ruined these self cooling diamond dry cutting drill bits and were not too fond of them.
The price for a set of the self cooling drill bits (6 - 14mm) is about half of the price I was quoted for the water cooled battery powered drill. If I only buy the 6 and 8mm sizes I currently need, it's significantly cheaper - however only if I get more than the 30 holes out of them and can occasionally use them in the future. If I go with the water cooled batter powered machine, that is rated for core drilling up to 40mm, I have significantly more options considering future projects.
Has anyone used these Paraffin/wax core cooled diamond dry cutting drill bits and wants to share about the use and experience with them?
Thank you!
Kind regards,
Oliver
Not having any previous experience with the paraffin core diamond drills I decided to check into the process, unfortunately, there's not much real qualitative information out there. Most of the available information centers around add copy and marketing releases.
At this point, this technology seems to be in the "Wild West" stage of drill specifications.
Some claim to use drill speeds of 500- RPM while others claim the drill speed needs to be in the - RPM range and they don't recommend using a cordless drill because of its low RPM range...corded drills only.
Some claim a "virtually unlimited" number of holes can be drilled while another claims "up to 20" holes.
The overall marketing theme for dry drilling: "A Diamond Drill Bit integrated with a paraffin wax lubricant inside which melts while dry drilling and cools the cutting surface."
However, this caveat is then usually added later on in the ad "Water can be used as additional cooling to prolong the life of the bit as wet drilling can significantly increase life service time of the bit."
One manufacturer offered up this piece of advice which makes me wonder what the actual finished piece would be like. "We tested larger sizes but found the cores got stuck in the paraffin wax. If you need to drill larger holes dry, see our M14 Vacuum Brazed bits which are available up to 65mm diameter."
And finally, this retailer decided this statement would properly cover his fanny, "If you need multiple holes, it will be highly recommended to stop and let the bit cool down after each hole."
So buyer beware, read the small print as some drill bits are recommended for porcelain while others are not. Personally, I'd just take the tjbnwi approach and use a sponge or a plywood fixture that allows for a water reservoir.
Let's start to dive into this topic. It will take some time, this is only be the first post of quite a few to come.
Starting with something simple is best, I needed a 6 mm hole through a floor tile to install a back stop for a sliding door. I wanted to look up the specifics/ technical details on the floor tiles, as I know exactly the make and model - however the manufacturer does not list those in an easy accessible way online, so I have to wait for them to respond to my . It's not that important right now anyway.
Since it was exactly that "one occasional hole", I had the dust extractor out anyway, perfect timing to try a Paraffin core cooled diamond dry cutting drill bit.
This is what the drill bit looks like when new.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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The red-ish/purple in the middle is the Paraffin core. The hole in the shaft goes probably through, my best guess is it is to make sure there is no pressure build up when the Paraffin melts to cool the bit or in case of overheating while the front is obstructed during drilling.
Not that it matters, but there was a noticeable "waxy" smell when I removed the drill bit from its packaging.
This 6mm drill bit is rated for a speed of up to rpm. I didn't have this information at hand when I needed to drill the hole, so I put my PDC in first gear - which is a lot slower. I wasn't concerned with speed here at all. However I remembered you are supposed to use only very little pressure and the drill bit should make a grinding noice.
I put the drill bit at an angle to the tile, so I could cut/grind a little recess that I would then use as a positive stop while slowly raising the drill to get straight/level. Basically the same technique used when using angle grinder diamond drill bits.
I got that grinding noise straight away, even at the much slower speed, and that hole was cut within 30-45 seconds tops. I had the dust extractor running, didn't use any attachment as I wanted to have a clear view on the drill bit/ hole. Besides the grinding noise it gave me zero indication of what was going on/ if I was doing it right/ if it got hot. Pretty unspectacular if you ask me.
But I ended up with a clean cut hole that was then easily extended into the concrete with a rotary hammer and regular SDS-plus drill bit.
[attachimg=4]
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The only residue/ evidence of using a Paraffin core cooled drill bit was a bit of that red-ish/purple Paraffin on the bottom of the hole before extending it.
[attachimg=6]
This is what the drill bit looked like after cutting that one hole and wiping it down.
[attachimg=7]
I think when compared to the initial pictures it's easily spotted that it lost quite a bit of the aggressive/coarse look - and to the touch that is as easily felt. That doesn't necessarily need to lead to a problem down the road or to be a sign of excessive wear just yet, we will see. It still feels like it would cut well/ get the job done. Also I don't think that the build-up of tile dust on/ inside the Paraffin core is particularly severe, I had read some warnings during my research that the dust might clog/ build up and mix with the Paraffin.
Right now, pros: Ease & speed of setup & use. Cons: Estimated ratio of price to wear/tear and ultimately expiration.
That's it for now, when I have time I will go for part 2.
Kind regards,
Oliver
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I believe the answer is deceptively simple:
The reason why one cannot do "serial" holes is that:
1) the paraffin is being consumed
2) there is no force pushing the paraffin once liquified, so it will work best drilling into a floor, OK-ish to a wall and pretty badly to a ceiling
3) the paraffin acts as a lubricant,
not as a coolant, it reduces friction which in turn reduces heat, the bit just does not heat up as fast as it would otherwise and
if never running out of paraffin, and never overheated, would last likely longer than a normal water-cooled bit does
What would be interesting is if there are ways to re-fill the paraffin core. That could change the game ref. how many holes the bit can handle before it turns into a basic "dry drilling" diamond bit.
As for the pointed-tip bits. They are absolutely fine for glazed ceramics which has a brick-like structure under the glazing. They completely fail when drilling into artificial stone which has the same hardness across the thickness of the tile .. such tiles are harder than the carbide tip and diamond-infused bits are a must there.
From the photo it seems a traditional glazed tile, a carbide bit would have probably been fine for this one.
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